Любимая классика

О запахах!

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Пусик сюда не заглядывала? :)

Яся

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Олвар писал(а):
А у Ферре какой ты бы назвала классическим ароматом?

Не знаю... :roll:
С Ферре познакомилась близко, когда все хорошие парфюмки исчезли с прилавков. Получается, что классику-то я в них и не углядела.
Молодая была, глупая :lol:

Но все, что знаю у Ферре - достойно быть классикой. Красивейшие парфюмы, меня просто завораживает гармония построения ароматов. Приблизительно то же чувство, как при прослушивании хорошей музыки.

Один из последних ароматов, Ессенс - бесподобный, веселый, цветочно-фруктовый эликсир бодрости! :P
Кстати, также исчезающий вид.
Бергамот очень мил, но если любишь и носишь цитрусы. Я не ношу...

Исключение составляет GF Ferre и последний розовый парфюм :?
Это что-то невразумительное...

Тортила

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Guru

Наина, приятно читать,что ещё одним поклонником Аченти стало больше! :P Они чудесные!!!!

пирамидка:
tangerine, rose, lily of the valley
jasmine, peach, raspberry
sandalwood, vanilla, tonka bean

*Buena*

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Наина, вот видишь, хорошо, что не избавилась от Шерерра 8)

Тортила

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Guru

А я что-то с этим Шеррером не знакома... :?

Сегодня надевала аромат, который для меня тоже "классика", очень красивый Изображение
не могу различить составляющие, но все очень гармонично!

*Buena*

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Hаина писал(а):
... похоже мой нос начинает любить этого Scherrer2...



Наина, а анисовые нотки тебе не мешают в нём?

Hiris

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Наина, а мне в нём аниса много, поэтому я из-за него уже и шершавости не замечаю.

Да, он такой стойкий и напористый, соглашусь с тобой. :wink:
Я бы его сравнила с Moschino /Moschino.

Hiris

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Пусик, привет! Вот тебе картинка с намеком :wink:
Изображение

Яся

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Я заинтригована Кадрилью. В сети нашла очень немного :cry: Вот это мне кажется интересным и немного пугающим...

Quadrille is a perfume from the 1950's. More precisely, it was introduced in 1955. The date appears little relevant in this case because I think that its creator was more interested in expressing atemporal qualities such as natural elegance, refinement and I would even say more unexpectedly, courage. A recent fragrance like Agent Provocateur connotes much more of the 1950s period to me.

What I particularly appreciate about this perfume is that despite it being marketed towards women it successfully avoids the pitfall of encoding or stereotyping womanhood into a perfume. The fragrance is very well balanced including both traditional feminine and masculine aromatic codes. Thus, it is a mix of dryness and sweetness, of spiciness, frutiness and floralcy, of austerity and sensuality. I could perfectly see a man wearing this perfum; he would only need to apply it more lightly...

There is a sense of balance in it that is similar to the type of aromatic balance that can be found in Jicky by Guerlain except that Quadrille is even drier and less sweet. Jicky was initially created as a unisex fragrance in 1889 and I think that Quadrille can also be easily considered as a unisex fragrance.

The name is a little puzzling to me as I am not certain whether the word "quadrille" is a reference to a dance that was popular in the 19th century or to the meaning derived from the Spanish term "cuadrillo" used to designate the party of four people helping the "torero" during a bullfight. Judging by the aroma of it, I lean towards the evocation of a bullfighting ring rather than a ball dance room. Originally from Spain, Balenciaga sought inspiration in the culture of Spanish tauromaquia and, in particular, in the "jacket of light" worn by matadors. In 1947, he created boleros as evening clothes for women that were directly inspired from it. One can note that he turned a masculine outfit into a feminine one because of the dominant sartorial code. I am further encouraged to contemplate this idea as I see the perfume as embodying both traditional feminine and virile virtues.

It evokes to me the symbolic character of the toreador who represents, at once, a feminine and masculine figure. The torero is dressed in a tight-fitting, luminous, colorful, and elaborately embroidered costume, in an era when masculine costumes are of a limited color palette and bear no frills, holding a cape that appears almost like a feminine skirt with its flowing lines. The lines and the colors are feminine. The toreador wears dainty ballerinas and brightly colored stockings. At the same time, the toreador is wielding a sharp sword to kill the bull. There is, to me, a yin and yang balance in tauromaquia, because it is both a graceful, feminine dance and a masculine, martial confrontation with death. A fascinating insight I got into the art of the corrida was when I saw how toreadors actually talk to the bull they fight, and sometimes very softly so, accentuating again this mix of the masculine and the feminine. Ultimately, in the corrida, these distinctions evaporate because what is left is the universal human confrontation with the idea of death.

Quadrille is such a perfume. It says, "I am ready", it puts its foot down. May come what may, the person who is wearing Quadrille is determined, ready to confront all situations and be at ease in any one of them, in other words, that person possesses natural elegance.

Like the corrida and the matador, the perfume is both rigorous, disciplined, and artistic. Its gendered characteristics give way to the expression of a moral character.

Quadrille is sometimes classified either as a fruity chypre or as a fresh-mossy chypre; in truth, it is both. At the start of the perfume, there is a very distinct licorice accord which moves later to the background of the notes, but will not leave the perfume. The fragrance seems to be of an amber color with touches of deep licoricey black and later, a transparent blue-green breath of fresh air will appear above the base notes.
After the initial outburst of licorice, the perfume becomes slightly sweeter and definitely fruitier. I can detect plum and a little later, peach. It smells slightly sour and sweet, like prunes do, as in Parure by Guerlain or Femme by Rochas which have also characteristic plumey chypre notes. A discreet jasmine floral note emerges but fruits remain the dominant accord. The perfume thus warms up, expands, but at the same time appears structured, controlled due to austere, dry notes: the clove and the cardamom. It really smells of aniseed and/or licorice. As the perfume reveals its character, its metal, if you will, controlling its undeniable sensuality, it encourages mental focus in the perfume-wearer. This last characteristic is also an intrinsic element of the corrida; the matador offers a rare example of an extraordinary intensity of focus in his play with death.

The drydown is warm, sensual and a bit dark due to the licorice background. At some point, you start catching a breath of fresh air hovering above the amber and musk, probably the green part of the aniseed. On good days, the aniseed maintains its green character and releases a strange and seductive accord in the drydown. It is strange because it contributes to a mixed effect of cold and warmth. The spices are sometimes so dry, I can almost hear them crepitate, like the clove in the kretek cigarettes.

Quadrille may turn off some people at first who will find the licorice, clove, and cardamom too much to handle, but it is undeniably a distinctive and elegant fragrance which develops a superb, sensual drydown.

Notes are lemon, plum, peach, clove, cardamom, jasmine, amber, musk...

I realize now that nowhere is an aniseed note mentioned, so either I'm off or it's an accord.

Утащено отсюда http://mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2006/06/perfume_review_musings_quadril.html

Парфи, а ты что скажешь? Девочки, не томите!!!

Яся

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Вот еще:
Quadrille
by Balenciaga for Women

Year Introduced: 1955
Scent Type: Floral
Top Notes: Plum, peach, lemon
Heart Notes: Jasmine, clove, cardamom
Base Notes: Amber, musk

"Quadrille is a classic 1950s fragrance from Spanish couturier Cristobal Balenciaga. The floral composition opens with a splash of summer fruits: plum, peach, and lemon. Rich jasmine is blended with the spicy seductiveness of clove, warmed by the mystery of musk and amber.
An enchanting experience--why not wear it for an evening of flamenco dancing? "©

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